Things to bear in mind when building a Chicken Coop

It is easy to get carried away with the thought of building your coop and some issues only become apparent when you have lived with the reality of it for a little while. So here are a few things you might want to take into consideration before going too far down the road of your own build :

Build A Movable Chicken Coop If you have decided to build a moveable coop then it needs to actually be moveable – this may seem obvious but it is surprising how many ‘portable’ coops end up staying in the place they were first built. This can be due to using too heavy materials, never ending additions, or not considering the practicalities of where you might actually move it to.

Cleaning The Coop A definite downside to owning chickens is having to clean their coop out regularly. If you don’t it will become unhygienic and could lead diseases and parasites spreading amongst your flock. So when designing your coop think about how you are going to clean it out. Easy access will be one of your main concerns – it is no fun to be stooped over double in a confined space or crawling through chicken poo.

Nesting Boxes Your hens will lay their eggs anywhere they can find (under hedges, in the middle of the coop floor etc. etc. ) so if you want to be able to collect the eggs easily (and have them less likely to be broken) you will need to build comfortable nest boxes for your girls and make them accessible for yourself to collect the eggs.

Make Your Coop Fit With Your Surroundings This is especially important if you have neighbours. Any complaints could jeopardise the longevity of your chicken keeping adventure – and certainly make life harder for you and reduce your enjoyment. Be sure to observe any legal requirements there might be in your area (such as if there is a specific minimum distance they have to be from neighbours land, maximum numbers of chickens, and whether or not roosters are allowed etc.) to protect yourself from having to give your chickens up if a complaint is made.

Getting Eggs in Winter

Raising hens can be made as artistic as painting pictures and at the same time in hens one can create something that will not only look well but perform well. Hens will add not only to one’s artistic sense but those same hens can give a necessary artist to the daily meal that will add to the joy of living. Fresh eggs and good meaty fowls are considered by some a delicacy but eggs are as necessary as “spuds” on the table of any well regulated family. The family who keeps their fowls can always have free eggs and if planned for properly, can always have good young broilers to add to their other meats.

To get Winter eggs hens should have good comfortable houses. The hen with the cold feet will lay few eggs. The hen that has a good house free from drafts, with good litter on the floor and plenty of good wholesome food, and will lay nearly as well in Winter needs a higher protein feed than she does in Summer. This Winter feed should carry lots of good vegetable protein that will make up for the confinement that the hen must form during the bad days of Winter. Hens should not be allowed to go on the ground in the rainy days nor in extreme cold weather. Houses so built that they can get sunlight in Winter also help the hens to make eggs.

The hen must make heat enough to overcome the extra cold. She must eat enough to not only keep up her body but to turn on eggs when they are hard to make. Freedom from lice, mites and other insects will add to the health and contentment of the insect life when the hen must spend all of her time indoors.

We seldom have weather cold enough to harm the health of the hen but we do have lots of rainy weather when the hen would be better off if she was kept in. Summer weather could be the cause of hens suffering from heat but on the other hand hens should have plenty of shade in Summer and lots of good shed room in Winter.

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A good mash, good scratch, plenty of green food are the three essentials things to Winter egg production or for good show plumage. Plenty of water too. A broad ration in one’s scratch is fine. One that contains many kinds of grains, are blended that they will not carry too much fats but lots of vegetable protein. When grain is best for fowls depends on the climate Corn (Indian) is a fine feed but carries lots of fats. Oats is a good food high in protein and bone building material. Wheat is the staple feed for the fowls of the Pacific Coast. Kaffir corn and Milo Maze are also good feeds, provided one gets good grains. I find that Egyptian corn is about one of the best of the mazes but that the broom corn is about the poorest. Be careful where getting these feeds to see that they carry a good feed value.

Good beef scraps are about the best high animal protein one can get, yet fish meat is a mighty food substitute for beef scraps.

Good nests are another essential thing in Winter eggs. When hens are kept in, they find little to keep them out of mischief and sometimes a broken egg will make a lot of egg eaters. Have plenty of nests. Make them all alike. Have enough litter in them so that the eggs are not easily broken. Have the nest in a dark place where the hens cannot see the eggs. If you note one of young hens eating an egg, take her out of the flock and feed her eggs shells until she is sick of them. Always keep plenty of grit and oyster or clam shell before the hens at all times. The hens that crave lime will often make egg eaters. Gather eggs often. Keep crockery eggs in the nest for nest eggs. Hens like to lay to other eggs but often if eggs are left in the nest, they will be broken and egg eaters will start by eating those broken eggs.

Some hens will be feather eaters. They will start on the hen that is not through moult and begin by picking the green feathers. Hens seldom do this unless one hen hurts its comb so as to cause it to bleed. The hens will pick at this blood and pull out the soft feathers being full of blood, will be the beginning of the egg eater. If you note a hen with a hurt comb, take her out until she gets well. If the hens show much sign of eating feathers, set in the house until you locate the feather eater, take her out and then watch the rest. A little aloes mixed with lard into an ointment and this preparation rubbed around the necks of the hens will often stop feather eating. The best way to cure the disease is to take such precautions as will never let the egg eater or the feather eater get a start in one’s flock.

The Houses and Next Years Breeders

The houses must be kept clean and dry. In order to keep them dry they must be kept clean, and the health and profit of your flock depends much upon these two important things.

First they must be well ventilated, have plenty of fresh air circulating, this helping to keep the straw litter dry, and at the same time allowing the condensed moisture which comes from the natural bodily heat of the birds and which, in closely shut houses, will form in drops upon the roof boards to evaporate. Your birds, too, will keep healthier and busier if plenty of fresh air is given them.

hen-in-windowIf cloth covered windows are used, it is comparatively easy to ventilate, the cloth windows being removed during the day and replaced after the air becomes chilled by the sun going down. The day is never too cold for the windows to be changed for a while, unless the storm comes directly into the house through the open windows. There will be very little trouble with colds or illness if this system is tried.

The droppings should be removed at least once every few days. A good plan is to do this every day, but with little help it can be managed every few days. This keeps lots of dampness out of the house and the straw litter will not require changing as often.  While we are working in the houses so much of the time, it will be easy to select our breeders for this season’s incubating. To most breeders this is one of the most interesting parts of the year’s work. We have all found where we have made mistakes in breeding before, so have decided to overcome this mistake this season, and it is interesting to select the birds which we believe are going to give us better results than we have ever had before.

The true breeder become so well acquainted with each individual specimen which is at all likely to go into a breeding pen, that he can easily trace its progeny through the flock of chicks, during the coming summer. Whether you are keeping them entirely for utility requirements or not, try to have them conform as near to the standard requirements as is possible. There is a great deal more pleasure in a standard bred flock than in an ordinary flock where these requirements are not catered to, even though as layers they may be perfectly satisfactory. It costs no more to feed a well bred bird than it does a heinz 57, and there is a certain pride, which every breeder who makes a success, in ever so small a way, knows, when he or she can point to a certain bird and say, ‘He is a standard bred bird.”

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The birds which did the early fall laying will by February be taking a short rest. When they resume operation, their eggs will be good, strong eggs for incubation. A bird which has been forced since the first winter days does not give us our strongest germs, naturally she has become somewhat exhausted and her weakened vitality is quite apt to show itself in poor fertility, or germs which die in the first few days of incubation. The hen which was the fall boarder will give us strong chicks.

Our real breeding pen consists of fifteen hens and a good strong breeding cockerel, and as a rule, the fertility is better than in larger flocks with more males. If it is necessary to use pullets for breeders, which we would not do, unless forced to, be sure that they are early hatched and well matured and breed them to an exceptionally strong yearling cock bird. If you have only late matched pullets to use as breeder, it would be better and more economical to buy your eggs for hatching from some breeder who has yearling hens. It is a loss and disappointment to use any but the best and strongest birds for breeders, as the result are weak chicks which demand a vast amount of care, and with whom, even with the best of care, the mortality, is sure to be great, even if they do hatch, and usually the loss accruing from eggs which do not go through the period of incubation, will more than pay for dependable eggs from good stock.

The fertility of eggs depends nearly as much upon the care and food given the breeding stock as upon the individuals themselves. They should be liberally fed and watered at all times, greed food must be supplied in some form or other, either by feeding cabbages of mangel wurtzels or by using Alfalfa meal in mash. Sprouted oats cannot be improved upon, but the labor is a drawback to this in large flocks.

In places where the hens can enjoy outdoor the year around, all greed food must be supplied, and for this purpose fields of Brussels sprouts, kale and Swiss chard are grown, as these can be picked continually. A good many flocks are fed fresh green alfalfa, but without exception, the yards were entirely void of any green food whatever. One man said the hens were so crazy for green leaf which grew upon some apple trees in their runs. They must supply green food the year around and we are not troubled only during the winter months, so we have one thing to be thankful for.

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